A Road Trip in Sri Lanka: Day 4 - Anuradhapura to Kataragama via Polonnaruwa and the East Coast

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It is very rare for bachelor boys like us to start early in a day; Especially after the tiresome day like that. But I believe all of us knew that we were lagging and had a lot of miles to cover today. So we started early from Bevary Holiday Home and moved towards Polonnaruwa which was the same route we covered yesterday from Dambulla to Anuradhapura.

We stopped at a small town to have breakfast. It was run by a tamil muslim and when I told him that I am from Coimbatore, he told many people in that town had ancestral here. But unfortunately, I forgot the town's name and the sweet breakfast dish (kind of like poli) I had there.


Polonnaruwa


When we reached Polonnaruwa it must have been around noon. Based on yesterday's experience and my strong argument that we need a guide, we decided to visit the museum first. The guide whose name I forgot now(The meaning of his name was 'Blue Stone'), showed us around the museum first. After that, we paid a visit to the souvenir shop, had some drinks, watched the monkeys bathing in a pond and then started towards the ruins.



Just like the previous major cities we visited in the past days, Polonnaruwa was also acted as capital in the past. The second most ancient of Sri Lanka's kingdoms, Polonnaruwa was first declared the capital city by King Vijayabahu I, who defeated Chola invaders in 1070 to reunite the country once more under a local leader.

The three important rulers of Polonnaruwa are:

Vijayabahu I
Parakramabahu I
Nissankamalla I

Even though Vijayabahu created this city, it reached its golden period during Parakramabahu's time. He even created a man-made lake called 'Parakrama Samudra'. The museum is situated near this lake.

Vijayabahu Palace

The important places to see here are the palace ruins, tooth temples and the Gal Vihara.
Whenever a new king takes the throne, he will build a new temple to place the tooth relic of Buddha. So in this place, you can see three tooth relic temple ruins.


Tooth Relic Temple

The Gal Vihara has four rock relief statues of the Buddha, which have been carved into the face of a large granite rock. The images consist of a large seated figure, another smaller seated figure inside an artificial cavern, a standing figure and a reclining figure.

Gal Vihara

In the reclining figure, the left foot was slightly withdrawn to indicate that Buddha was attained parinirvana(passed away) and not just sleeping.


Note: In most of the archaeological sites in India, only security will be there. If you do any monkey business there, all that they do is just blow their whistle as louder as possible. But it's not the same case in Sri Lanka. Here almost all the places have army personnel and if you do monkey businesses like climbing on walls, placing your head on headless statues, placing your hand on the shoulder of sculptures and posing, etc., it might land you in trouble. Even though Buddhist people had to be the most peace loving people, they get easily offended. One local expressed his displeasure(angrily) when one of my friends worn his veshti above his knee level in Dambulla, and another one almost got arrested in Polonnaruwa when a local complained to a security about the way he's posing with the sculptures.

Even though he got 'released' with just a warning, it shook us a little. After Polonnaruwa, we started moving towards to the East Coast of Sri Lanka. Our first destination was Batticaloa aka Mattakalappu. The beach had no tourists and only the locals who reside near the sea were there. My friends had a good swim, while I sat on the sand and did the guarding even though there wasn't any need for it. (I am not the kind of person who enjoys bathing in sea or waterfalls.)


After Batticaloa, we followed the East Coast Road and moved towards Arugam Bay. The boys had plans to bath there also but when we reached it was already dark. So only a few went into the sea just for a ceremonial dip and we started our search for a hotel to eat.

Arugam Bay

Arugam Bay have many options to dine and stay but most of the places are costly. Finally, we found a hotel maintained by a Tamil Muslim family. As the non-vegetarians in the group, Sathya, Yogesha and me wanted to try the fish. Sathya ordered a fish curry and to his disappointment, it wasn't hot. Yogesha was very eager to try the 'Grilled fish' but it also didn't satisfy us. But somehow our vegetarian friends found more tasty items and enjoyed it more than us. Finally, it was time to pay the bill and the younger brother who served us calculated and give the bill around 4600 LKR. But before we pay, the older brother took the bill and did a recalculation. I thought he was going to give us some discount. But he added the items again and changed the amount to 5500 LKR. Seeing my face when I counted the notes in my hand, the younger brother said 5000 LKR is enough. While Yogesha and I were settling the bill, our other friends were having a conversation with the brother's father about how their hotel was totally destroyed during Tsunami and how we got help from foreigners who were his customers in the past to rebuild it.

Initially, our plan was to go to Galle fort after seeing Anuradhapura. But, like how I insisted on not skipping Anuradhapura, Sathya insisted that we should go to Kataragama. So we decided to resume our ride to Kataragama even though it would be past midnight when we reach there. We parted from East Coast and travelled inside the land. The roads were almost deserted and we couldn't see any vehicles except one or two auto rickshaws.

After some time, our driver stopped in a small shop and bought some bananas. He said, there's a male elephant with huge tusks roam around these roads in the night and it won't leave the vehicles to move unless they offer something to eat. I got both excited and scared after hearing this and remained awake till we reach Kataragama around 2.30 in the early morning to see him. Fortunately or unfortunately we didn't come across this elephant.

When we finally found a room in Kataragama to stay, it was almost three in the morning. So when we found out that the large window facing towards the corridor had no closings, we just kept both the door and window open and sank into our beds.

Just before drifting into sleep, Anand was enquiring about the Kataragma temple to our driver. When he asked about the idol in the temple, our driver casually said 'there is no idol in the temple. we just simply worship before the curtain', he was totally shocked. He gave me a look like 'then why the hell did we come all the way here ?!' and it was the last thing I remember about the day.


A Road Trip in Sri Lanka: Day 3 - Dambulla, Sigiriya and Anuradhapura

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Now we had a plan. And it was time to execute it. We left Kandy and reached Dambulla around 9 am. It was time for breakfast but we couldn't find any good hotels there. Dambulla was not a big city as I expected and had only a few options to eat. We chose a small hotel and had some idiyappam and bread loaves.


Dambulla


Our first stop for the day was Dambulla Rajamaha Viharaya and the Dambulla cave temple. There is nothing much in the Vihara. It has a Buddhist museum but we skipped it since we had already seen a similar one in Kandy. The main attraction is the cave temple. It is on top of a small hill. If you think it is difficult to trek then wait for Sigirya!


The complex has five caves and it is said there are 80 caves in the surrounding area. These caves are full of exquisite murals(wall paintings) and buddha statues. We didn't have a guide here, so I can't explain more about the caves. Photography is allowed here but you shouldn't take any photos showing your back to any of the Buddha statues. So selfies with Buddha are strictly prohibited. Then we proceeded to Sigiriya.


Sigiriya


Basically Sigiriya is a rock. The king Kasyapa(477 - 495 AD) decided to build his palace on this rock and moved his capital from Anuradhapura to here. He also painted beautiful frescos on the sides of the rock. After he was defeated by his brother Mughalan, Sigiriya was abandoned and the capital was again moved to Anuradhapura.


The site is vast and starts with Gardens below the rock. Then you have to climb on the rock. First you reach The Mirror Wall. During old times, the wall was highly polished and full of paintings of Apsaras. So when you walk beside it, it would seem in the reflection that you are walking with Apsaras. But people who visit here started writing in the wall (since 8th century) and now it is full of old versus and worn out of polish.

Then you have to climb a spiral staircase to see the remaining frescos. It is said there were nearly 500 ladies were painted in the frescos, but only a few are remaining now. Photography is not allowed here.
Taken from internet


Climb down the staircase, go uphill and you will reach the Lion Gate. The climb to upper palace starts from here. It is just a steel narrow staircase used for both climbing up and down. In some places, it was shaking and when we were climbing there was a huge crowd of school students climbing up and down with us. So if you have fear of heights it is better that you stop here. When it is mentioned that Sigirya is an ancient rock fortress and has a palace on the top, don't expect something extravagance on the top. On top, all you could see are the base of a palace which was built before 1500 years.


Even though my friends were disappointed at what they saw on the top, I was very happy that I made it to the top. But I was too tired to enjoy the moment there.

An important note to South Indians, especially to Tamil people: We always think that we look like Sri Lankans; So don't think that you can fool the security here by buying the tickets for local people instead of foreigners. The ticket counter is almost one kilo meter far from the entrance and you have to go all the way back to get the tickets again, like us.

Sigiriya also has a museum and if possible see the museum first and then proceed to the place so that you can get some basic knowledge about the place.

After Sigirya, we were very tired. We just filled our stomachs with whatever the cafeteria had(biscuits, chips, ice cream,etc.) and started for Anuradhapura.

Anuradhapura


Anuradhapura - The main reason why I came on this trip. The first time I came to know about this city is through Kalki's novel 'Ponniyin Selvan'. In that, it was a charming city full of Buddhist viharas, palaces, ponds,trees,etc. In the novel, it is said that Raja raja chozhan got inspired from here to built his magnum opus 'Brahadeeswarar Temple'. Since Brahadeeswarar temple is my favorite place of all time, I wanted to visit Anuradhapura since I read the novel.

When we reached Anuradhapura it was already night. My friends were already tired and most of them were discussing whether to see around the city or not. But I was adamant that I had to see. After taking some rest in the rooms we booked there, we started to the old city.

The ancient Anuradhapura town lies outside the new town. It has many monuments but since all my friends were tired, we went directly to the Ruwanwelisaya. This large stupa was built by King Dutugemunu c. 140 B.C., who became lord of all Sri Lanka after a war in which the Chola King Elara, was defeated.


The peaceful night and the large white stupa gave some new energy to us. The environment and the news that there is no entry fee here brought the old joy ness to my friends again. From Ruwanwelisaya, a pavement leads us to the Maha bodhi tree complex.


Initially, we weren't sure about whether that's the route but since it was night and we were in a good peaceful mood, we decided to give it a try. The Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi is the sacred fig tree which is believed to be the right wing branch of Sri Maha Bodhi from Buddha Gaya, brought here by Sangamitra, the daughter of Emperor Asoka. It was said to be planted in 249 BC, and is the oldest living human-planted tree in the world with a known planting date.

After this short satisfying sight-seeing in old Anuradhapura, we had our Veg and Egg Kothus in a bakery/hotel and retired to our rooms.

But I believe Anuradhapura has more to offer and If I ever visit Sri Lanka again, I would try to spend more time here.



A Road Trip in Sri Lanka: Day 2 - Kandy and Nuwara Eliya

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Kandy


The day started earlier. As I have mentioned earlier, we were without a plan. When we discussed our idea with the driver we realised that we have booked the rooms for two days in Kandy and it would be vain to return Kandy if we visit Dambulla and Sigiriya on the same day. So we decided to visit Nuawara Eliya on that day.


Our first place on today's list was Kandy Palace and the Tooth Temple. During old times, the capital city of Sri Lanka was changed from time to time, mostly because of the Chola attacks from India. Each of these capitals has a seperate temple for the Tooth relic of Buddha which was brought to Sri Lanka by Hemamali, the princess of Kalinga and her husband Dhantha. Being the last capital of Old Sri Lanka, the tooth relic finally rests here.



There is an audio guide available in the ticket counter and the photography is allowed inside the temple too. After visiting the temple, museum and the palace, you can visit ' The World Buddhism Museum' too. I have never seen a vast museum dedicated to Buddhism like this. Each asian country has a separate hall in the museum to show how Buddhism came into their country and how it has grown now. The India, China and Korean halls look amazing with so much data. But photography is not allowed inside the museum.

Inside the Tooth Temple



After seeing the palace, we came to the highway by walk and had our breakfast in Balaji Dosai. The dosai were not bad. And I had my first ever Ginger Beer here. I could definitely taste the ginger but I'm pretty sure that there was not even a hint of beer in it.


Then we started our journey towards Nuawara Eliya. Along the way I could see all the Hindu temples were celebrating Thai Poosam. Here Lord Murugan is the most popular god. On the way we could see a hill with a building and tower on its top. Our driver said that it was built recently and the view would be good from there. I still don't understand why did we took that detour.


The 'Ambuluwawa Multi Religious Center' was recently built by the President Rajapakse to honour all the religions. The place is almost deserted except from some couples who had taken sanctuary in some of the hidden corners. The view from the tower was great but I would advice you not to waste your precious time here if you are a foreigner travelling in Sri Lanka.

Nuwara Eliya


When we reached Nuwara Eliya around two or three in the afternoon I woke from my nap with a rumbling hungry stomach. The weather was good and we thought may be it was not such a bad idea to come here. We had our lunch at Sri Ambaal's.

Nuwara Eliya is a hill station with some old colonial buildings. It has some parks, a lake and some valley view points. The popular view point is called 'World's End'. When we finished our lunch it was already evening. While proceeding to the world's end, our driver said that since we have to do a trek inside the park to get to the point, the entry might be closed when we reach there. We had also planned to meet our vehicle owner who is a friend of Sathya's relative and lives nearby. When we called him, he told that he was not in home and we can meet him on the last day in Colombo. Now we were clueless about what to do next.

PS: If you want to know more about World's End, check this post.

On that time, we had realised that we had to do some serious planning or else we will loose some precious time wandering off. We hit the Lake Gregory park and while some of our friends were testing their kite flying skill, Sathya had a discussion with our driver. Soon we realised that our driver is a vivid fan of Obama. Whatever plan we propose, his answer was 'Yes! We can!!'. But thankfully Sathya took the responsibility of planning the trip by suo moto and laid out a plan.


While returning we stopped at Mackwoods Labookellie Tea Centre to buy some tea as souvenirs. The tea seemed costly but my parents said it tasted good when I returned back. At the tea cafe we got some free tea with our cakes probably because of where we come from.


Till then the day was treated as somewhat boring and wasted. But the day was not over!

We returned to Kandy at night, and stopped at a small hotel to have our dinner. I tried the Egg Kothu Parotta there and declared it as the national dish of Sri Lanka and decided to have it for dinner as long as I stay here. It was the best among the worst.

During that time the World T20 series was going on and we saw the first innings of India batting while having dinner at the hotel. It was around nine when we finished our dinner and we decided to hit KFC to watch the second innings. To pose as customers we decided to buy some ice cream while we were there. There was a small dining room adjacent to kitchen apart from the main dining area and we sat there and watched the match. The people working there were also watching the match with us and they were supporting Bangladesh. Whenever I went to buy some ice creams there was a wicket fall and my friends didn't mind to have more ice creams. We were rooting for India and the waiters for Bangladesh, it was almost like a Horse Race Club. When the match went to the final ball, we were all jumped from our seats to see whether Dhoni got the batsman and indeed he did! We were all shouting in joy and the employees there went little sad. Later we shook hands with them saying 'Good Game' and left the KFC.

That just made our day!




A RoadTrip in Sri Lanka: Day 1- Madurai to Colombo

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The Arrival


Even though the flight was on Tuesday afternoon, for me, the trip started officially on Monday night. Since I was the only person to start from Coimbatore, I reached Madurai before the rest of the party who started from Bengaluru. Even though I booked in the last bus to start from Coimbatore, I reached Madurai by 4 am. But I had a plan to kill time till my friends arrive. And I was luckily on time for where the visitors barge into the biggest house in the city and wake its owners every day morning.


If i start to give a brief introduction to Madurai Meenakshi Amman temple, then this blog wont be enough. So leaving you to Google about it, I will continue to the events. So every morning the priests wake the holy couple from palliyarai (bed room) and then the pooja starts for Meenakshi first. In a way, I feel bad for the gods because these priests always start the pooja on time and the gods cannot say ‘Today is holiday, please let me sleep for a while’. But Sokkanathar is lucky; he gets another 30 minutes of nap time before the pooja starts for him.



I watched all the pooja, bought a book about the temple and was watching the pigeons thinking what to do next. At that time my friends have reached. Then we took a cheap room beside the temple and got ready. Again I went to the temple with my friends and finished the breakfast with Sakkarai Pongal from the Prasada Counter and Poori and Pongal from the Kaiyendi Bavan nearby.

Now the time has arrived for us to depart. We reached the Madurai airport; checked in at the SpiceJet counter and got the immigration slips. The procedure was simple; just answered a couple questions in the counter about why I am going to Sri Lanka, how we all got together and planned a trip (Yes, I did mention the whatsapp group),and we all got cleared and boarded the plane.

The plane trip was surprisingly short and even before I finish my Chicken Tikka Sandwich, the pilot has announced that we will start descending to Colombo soon. I did try to look out the window and guess on which part of the Indian coastline we are crossing by comparing it with map.. 

Do you know that each flight in SpiceJet fleet is named after a spice ?

Now we reached the crucial part of our trip: Clearing the immigration in Sri Lanka. Since the beginning of this plan I had many nightmares regarding this, like my visa would not be approved for some silly reasons and I would be asked to return immediately in the next flight. But the real was totally opposite to it. 

I filled the form, approached an officer and spoke only three sentences. 'Hi, Good afteroon!'; 'I work in Indian Overseas Bank.'; 'Yes, We do have a branch in Colombo.'. That's it! My visa is approved! It was so short that we thought there might be a second round of questioning before we exit. But before we know we are out of the airport.

If I could relate that event to an film scene it would be the interview scene of Prakash Raj in 'Abhiyum Naanum'. No one asked me about Bucephalus nor NOC. Then we proceeded to buy the local sims. I have forgotten the exact prices of tourist sims but remember these; Airtel was the costliest; Hutch offered more for less money but couldn't get 3G in most of the places; and Mobitel gives you value for money. If you had liked my instagram photos I posted during my visit, then you have to thank Yogesha for getting that Mobitel sim.

The manager of the place where we booked in Kandy has requested us to pick another guy who is coming from Norway and staying in the same hostel with us. When we asked how to find him he told us that the Norway guy will find us. And as it is, he found us with in five minutes. I believe that manager would have told, look out for the guys who look like natives but standing there with out any clue of where to go next.

Then Sathya called our driver and the van came. It's a Toyota Hiace. Before continuing about the trip, I should say more about this van. I believe almost 80 percent of the four wheeler market in Sri Lanka belongs to Toyota. In that, more than half are Hiace. I have never seen a van model where it  is customised into so many variety and used widely. During our visit, I have seen many variants of Hiace like tourists cabs, home purpose, school van, ambulance, etc..



Within minutes of getting into the van we have realised that we cant rely on the AC of the van on this trip. We knew it was on but we couldn't feel it. We started to Kandy and on the way we stopped at Hotel Euro Star to have our first Sri Lankan meal. I don't want to comment much about the food we had there, except to mention that the Chicken Biryani I had there was my first and last Sri Lankan Chicken Biryani during my entire trip.

Then the road trip continued towards Kandy. Soon we have noticed that the shuffle of the van’s music player repeatedly started playing the first song in my USB for every two or three songs. And the distance from the airport to Kandy looked not so far in the map but the winding road just keeps going on and on. Now some of us started to doze off and other intellectuals like Yogesha were having a conversation with the Norwegian guy about the life in India and Norway. Suddenly Adhithya got the doubt whether Frost Giants really live in Norway or people in Norway at least believe in it like we do! 

The rest of day was just slow and finally we reached Kandy. Without Google maps and Sathya, we would have never found our place, the Kandy City Hostel. We checked in there and left to have our dinner. It took us a couple of kilometres and nearly twenty minutes to reach the main area of Kandy by walk. And to our surprise most of the hotels were shut. Then we came to know that it was a New Moon day and all new moon days are national holidays in Sri Lanka. 

Our vegetarian friends couldn’t find any hotels, so they decided to have some Veg burgers from KFC. but others luckily found a hotel open. We ordered some items but the waiter brought some other items saying only these are available. Now I felt that my vegetarian friends are more lucky. The one unique thing I found here was the food items are placed in a tray and you can take how much ever you want and get bill only for those. 

Then we joined the Veg eaters in KFC and met a guy who was proudly saying to us that the greatest cricket batsman Sangakkara’s home is beside his. Since we didn’t want to upset him by comparing Sangakkara with Virat, we left the KFC soon. We had taken a bedroom with ac and a couple of beds in a dormitory room. I got the dorm and took a lower bed near the balcony. Due to the humidity, we decided to leave the windows and balcony door wide open and I could clearly see the ‘Poya Day’ moon. 


I could feel that the coming week is going to be fun but I was feeling nervous also. I was struggling to get sleep and when I finally fell asleep, I got a night full of nightmares with all my banking transactions running inside my mind in huge LKR and un tallied Lots(A Lot is a combination of credit and debit).

Thanks to Google for always watching me from above!

A RoadTrip in Sri Lanka: The Prologue

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The Plan


Every bachelor has a group in whatsapp that discuss where to travel next. This story also starts in a group like that. The aim was simple. Choose a place where we would spend less and gain a lot. As usual, like every men in this country, our first choice should have been Bangkok! I could try to convince you that we chose Sri Lanka instead of Bangkok because of its heritage value and as a teetotallers we would have easily got bored in Bangkok. But the real reason is, we are a bunch of cheapos who thought Sri Lanka would be cheaper than Bangkok and even India!

So the plan started three or four months back. And I am proud to say that I was one of the founding  fathers of the group and chose the dates of last week of March(March 22nd to March 27th). Then comes the plan of squeezing all the places you want to see into these days. All the places were discussed and I was firm that we should not miss any UNESCO cultural sites. Those were

  • Kandy
  • Dambulla
  • Sigiriya
  • Anuradhapura
  • Polonnaruwa 
  • Galle

My friend and the co-founder of the group Sathyanarayanan suggested that we should also see Kataragama and Jaffna. Since we did not know whether any special permission is needed to for Jaffna, we left it. The other co-founder Adithya suggested Nuwara Eliya; but that was also vetoed due to the reason it doesn't have much places to see.



The flight booking was done around Christmas, to and fro from Madurai to Colombo. The tip for fellow travellers: When you fly look for these moderately old airports instead of newly renovated international airports, because the flights departure from these new airports charge you extra. 

The other important thing to know about traveling to Sri Lanka is the ETA(Electronic Travel Authorization) procedure. The rates are in Dollars and you can check it in their site. There is a concession for Indians. No need to worry; it is a simple procedure; just fill the form and you will get the approval within few days. For each person we spent around Rs.1500 INR for it.

Later due to some personal reasons I could not participate effectively in the planning. The initial plan was to travel from Colombo to Kandy via train, and then visit other places via bus. The response of preparing an itinerary was given to Anand GB and hotel booking to Adhi. And I just got busy with applying my No Objection Certificate since I am the only one in the group who works in public sector.

When the date of departure move nearer, the excitement and the nervousness got increased and the plan kept changing and changing and we could not even remember which one is the final. Then Sathya announced that he arranged a car for us to travel in Sri Lanka through his uncle’s friend in Sri Lanka, it eased most of our tension.

I was also little pre occupied with my NOC, since it did not arrive till the mid of March, even though I have applied it in the last of January. Then it got sanctioned just a week before, reached my Regional Office in Coimbatore. Then I got a call from there that NOC was sanctioned in CO but I have mistakenly mentioned the dates as March 22nd March 27th 2015!! Thankfully it was not a big issue and I got the NOC in my hands just a couple of days before the trip.


Now we were all ready. We had everything in need for the visa procedures; packed everything ; arranged for travel and hotels; but still had that rumble in the stomach about our first international trip. And I believe that’s how every memorable trip starts..

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