A Road Trip in Sri Lanka: Day 4 - Anuradhapura to Kataragama via Polonnaruwa and the East Coast

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It is very rare for bachelor boys like us to start early in a day; Especially after the tiresome day like that. But I believe all of us knew that we were lagging and had a lot of miles to cover today. So we started early from Bevary Holiday Home and moved towards Polonnaruwa which was the same route we covered yesterday from Dambulla to Anuradhapura.

We stopped at a small town to have breakfast. It was run by a tamil muslim and when I told him that I am from Coimbatore, he told many people in that town had ancestral here. But unfortunately, I forgot the town's name and the sweet breakfast dish (kind of like poli) I had there.


Polonnaruwa


When we reached Polonnaruwa it must have been around noon. Based on yesterday's experience and my strong argument that we need a guide, we decided to visit the museum first. The guide whose name I forgot now(The meaning of his name was 'Blue Stone'), showed us around the museum first. After that, we paid a visit to the souvenir shop, had some drinks, watched the monkeys bathing in a pond and then started towards the ruins.



Just like the previous major cities we visited in the past days, Polonnaruwa was also acted as capital in the past. The second most ancient of Sri Lanka's kingdoms, Polonnaruwa was first declared the capital city by King Vijayabahu I, who defeated Chola invaders in 1070 to reunite the country once more under a local leader.

The three important rulers of Polonnaruwa are:

Vijayabahu I
Parakramabahu I
Nissankamalla I

Even though Vijayabahu created this city, it reached its golden period during Parakramabahu's time. He even created a man-made lake called 'Parakrama Samudra'. The museum is situated near this lake.

Vijayabahu Palace

The important places to see here are the palace ruins, tooth temples and the Gal Vihara.
Whenever a new king takes the throne, he will build a new temple to place the tooth relic of Buddha. So in this place, you can see three tooth relic temple ruins.


Tooth Relic Temple

The Gal Vihara has four rock relief statues of the Buddha, which have been carved into the face of a large granite rock. The images consist of a large seated figure, another smaller seated figure inside an artificial cavern, a standing figure and a reclining figure.

Gal Vihara

In the reclining figure, the left foot was slightly withdrawn to indicate that Buddha was attained parinirvana(passed away) and not just sleeping.


Note: In most of the archaeological sites in India, only security will be there. If you do any monkey business there, all that they do is just blow their whistle as louder as possible. But it's not the same case in Sri Lanka. Here almost all the places have army personnel and if you do monkey businesses like climbing on walls, placing your head on headless statues, placing your hand on the shoulder of sculptures and posing, etc., it might land you in trouble. Even though Buddhist people had to be the most peace loving people, they get easily offended. One local expressed his displeasure(angrily) when one of my friends worn his veshti above his knee level in Dambulla, and another one almost got arrested in Polonnaruwa when a local complained to a security about the way he's posing with the sculptures.

Even though he got 'released' with just a warning, it shook us a little. After Polonnaruwa, we started moving towards to the East Coast of Sri Lanka. Our first destination was Batticaloa aka Mattakalappu. The beach had no tourists and only the locals who reside near the sea were there. My friends had a good swim, while I sat on the sand and did the guarding even though there wasn't any need for it. (I am not the kind of person who enjoys bathing in sea or waterfalls.)


After Batticaloa, we followed the East Coast Road and moved towards Arugam Bay. The boys had plans to bath there also but when we reached it was already dark. So only a few went into the sea just for a ceremonial dip and we started our search for a hotel to eat.

Arugam Bay

Arugam Bay have many options to dine and stay but most of the places are costly. Finally, we found a hotel maintained by a Tamil Muslim family. As the non-vegetarians in the group, Sathya, Yogesha and me wanted to try the fish. Sathya ordered a fish curry and to his disappointment, it wasn't hot. Yogesha was very eager to try the 'Grilled fish' but it also didn't satisfy us. But somehow our vegetarian friends found more tasty items and enjoyed it more than us. Finally, it was time to pay the bill and the younger brother who served us calculated and give the bill around 4600 LKR. But before we pay, the older brother took the bill and did a recalculation. I thought he was going to give us some discount. But he added the items again and changed the amount to 5500 LKR. Seeing my face when I counted the notes in my hand, the younger brother said 5000 LKR is enough. While Yogesha and I were settling the bill, our other friends were having a conversation with the brother's father about how their hotel was totally destroyed during Tsunami and how we got help from foreigners who were his customers in the past to rebuild it.

Initially, our plan was to go to Galle fort after seeing Anuradhapura. But, like how I insisted on not skipping Anuradhapura, Sathya insisted that we should go to Kataragama. So we decided to resume our ride to Kataragama even though it would be past midnight when we reach there. We parted from East Coast and travelled inside the land. The roads were almost deserted and we couldn't see any vehicles except one or two auto rickshaws.

After some time, our driver stopped in a small shop and bought some bananas. He said, there's a male elephant with huge tusks roam around these roads in the night and it won't leave the vehicles to move unless they offer something to eat. I got both excited and scared after hearing this and remained awake till we reach Kataragama around 2.30 in the early morning to see him. Fortunately or unfortunately we didn't come across this elephant.

When we finally found a room in Kataragama to stay, it was almost three in the morning. So when we found out that the large window facing towards the corridor had no closings, we just kept both the door and window open and sank into our beds.

Just before drifting into sleep, Anand was enquiring about the Kataragma temple to our driver. When he asked about the idol in the temple, our driver casually said 'there is no idol in the temple. we just simply worship before the curtain', he was totally shocked. He gave me a look like 'then why the hell did we come all the way here ?!' and it was the last thing I remember about the day.


A Road Trip in Sri Lanka: Day 3 - Dambulla, Sigiriya and Anuradhapura

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Now we had a plan. And it was time to execute it. We left Kandy and reached Dambulla around 9 am. It was time for breakfast but we couldn't find any good hotels there. Dambulla was not a big city as I expected and had only a few options to eat. We chose a small hotel and had some idiyappam and bread loaves.


Dambulla


Our first stop for the day was Dambulla Rajamaha Viharaya and the Dambulla cave temple. There is nothing much in the Vihara. It has a Buddhist museum but we skipped it since we had already seen a similar one in Kandy. The main attraction is the cave temple. It is on top of a small hill. If you think it is difficult to trek then wait for Sigirya!


The complex has five caves and it is said there are 80 caves in the surrounding area. These caves are full of exquisite murals(wall paintings) and buddha statues. We didn't have a guide here, so I can't explain more about the caves. Photography is allowed here but you shouldn't take any photos showing your back to any of the Buddha statues. So selfies with Buddha are strictly prohibited. Then we proceeded to Sigiriya.


Sigiriya


Basically Sigiriya is a rock. The king Kasyapa(477 - 495 AD) decided to build his palace on this rock and moved his capital from Anuradhapura to here. He also painted beautiful frescos on the sides of the rock. After he was defeated by his brother Mughalan, Sigiriya was abandoned and the capital was again moved to Anuradhapura.


The site is vast and starts with Gardens below the rock. Then you have to climb on the rock. First you reach The Mirror Wall. During old times, the wall was highly polished and full of paintings of Apsaras. So when you walk beside it, it would seem in the reflection that you are walking with Apsaras. But people who visit here started writing in the wall (since 8th century) and now it is full of old versus and worn out of polish.

Then you have to climb a spiral staircase to see the remaining frescos. It is said there were nearly 500 ladies were painted in the frescos, but only a few are remaining now. Photography is not allowed here.
Taken from internet


Climb down the staircase, go uphill and you will reach the Lion Gate. The climb to upper palace starts from here. It is just a steel narrow staircase used for both climbing up and down. In some places, it was shaking and when we were climbing there was a huge crowd of school students climbing up and down with us. So if you have fear of heights it is better that you stop here. When it is mentioned that Sigirya is an ancient rock fortress and has a palace on the top, don't expect something extravagance on the top. On top, all you could see are the base of a palace which was built before 1500 years.


Even though my friends were disappointed at what they saw on the top, I was very happy that I made it to the top. But I was too tired to enjoy the moment there.

An important note to South Indians, especially to Tamil people: We always think that we look like Sri Lankans; So don't think that you can fool the security here by buying the tickets for local people instead of foreigners. The ticket counter is almost one kilo meter far from the entrance and you have to go all the way back to get the tickets again, like us.

Sigiriya also has a museum and if possible see the museum first and then proceed to the place so that you can get some basic knowledge about the place.

After Sigirya, we were very tired. We just filled our stomachs with whatever the cafeteria had(biscuits, chips, ice cream,etc.) and started for Anuradhapura.

Anuradhapura


Anuradhapura - The main reason why I came on this trip. The first time I came to know about this city is through Kalki's novel 'Ponniyin Selvan'. In that, it was a charming city full of Buddhist viharas, palaces, ponds,trees,etc. In the novel, it is said that Raja raja chozhan got inspired from here to built his magnum opus 'Brahadeeswarar Temple'. Since Brahadeeswarar temple is my favorite place of all time, I wanted to visit Anuradhapura since I read the novel.

When we reached Anuradhapura it was already night. My friends were already tired and most of them were discussing whether to see around the city or not. But I was adamant that I had to see. After taking some rest in the rooms we booked there, we started to the old city.

The ancient Anuradhapura town lies outside the new town. It has many monuments but since all my friends were tired, we went directly to the Ruwanwelisaya. This large stupa was built by King Dutugemunu c. 140 B.C., who became lord of all Sri Lanka after a war in which the Chola King Elara, was defeated.


The peaceful night and the large white stupa gave some new energy to us. The environment and the news that there is no entry fee here brought the old joy ness to my friends again. From Ruwanwelisaya, a pavement leads us to the Maha bodhi tree complex.


Initially, we weren't sure about whether that's the route but since it was night and we were in a good peaceful mood, we decided to give it a try. The Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi is the sacred fig tree which is believed to be the right wing branch of Sri Maha Bodhi from Buddha Gaya, brought here by Sangamitra, the daughter of Emperor Asoka. It was said to be planted in 249 BC, and is the oldest living human-planted tree in the world with a known planting date.

After this short satisfying sight-seeing in old Anuradhapura, we had our Veg and Egg Kothus in a bakery/hotel and retired to our rooms.

But I believe Anuradhapura has more to offer and If I ever visit Sri Lanka again, I would try to spend more time here.



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